Benoît Déhu’s Cuvée Initiation Brut Nature is a distinctive grower Champagne from Fossoy, on the western edge of the Vallée de la Marne in Champagne, France. Déhu is an eighth-generation vigneron whose family Champagne house dates to 1787. After working at Champagne Bollinger, he returned to the family estate and began pursuing a highly personal approach centered on biodynamic farming, parcel expression, low-intervention winemaking and the potential of Meunier.
Initiation is a blend of Meunier and Pinot Noir. The Meunier comes from Déhu’s celebrated La Rue des Noyers parcel, while the Pinot Noir is sourced from a small parcel lower on the hillside with predominantly clay and sand soils. Déhu planted the Pinot Noir using massale selections derived from a Pommard clone from Burgundy, bringing an intriguing Burgundian influence to this deeply Champenois wine.
La Rue des Noyers forms the heart of Déhu’s independent project: a 1.7-hectare parcel farmed biodynamically, with a portion traditionally worked by horse. Déhu is particularly known for fermenting and aging his wines in oak, including barrels made from trees harvested in the nearby forest of Fossoy. His Champagnes favor tension, energy and minerality rather than overt richness.
For the 2021 base, malolactic fermentation was blocked and the wine was bottled with no dosage, giving the Champagne its taut, dry and mineral-driven personality. The finished wine combines crushed-stone minerality with floral, herbal and red-fruited nuances, showing impressive energy and precision. The wine was disgorged on April 26, 2024.
90 Points — Vinous
“The NV (2021) Initiation is an attractive wine, perhaps a bit lithe in this release, but still very pretty. Crushed rocks, flowers, mint, dried herbs and red-toned fruit all grace the palate. Blocked malolactic fermentation and no dosage further amplify the wine's decidedly taut leanings. All things considered, this is a gorgeous 2021. Disgorged: April 26, 2024.”
— Antonio Galloni, Vinous, 90 Points
Wine Details
Producer: Benoît Déhu
Wine: Cuvée Initiation Brut Nature
Base Vintage: 2021
Region: Champagne, France
Area: Western Vallée de la Marne
Village: Fossoy
Grapes: Meunier and Pinot Noir
Meunier Source: La Rue des Noyers
Pinot Noir: Massale selection from Pommard clone; clay and sand soils
Farming: Biodynamic practices at La Rue des Noyers
Vinification: Oak fermentation and élevage; malolactic fermentation blocked
Dosage: No dosage / Brut Nature
Disgorgement: April 26, 2024
Rating: Vinous 90 Points
Bottle Size: 750ml
Benoît Déhu Champagne Cuvée Initiation Brut Nature (Base 2021) 750ml
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