95 Points — Wine Spectator
94 Points — Jasper Morris, MW, Inside Burgundy
Domaine Clos de la Chapelle’s 2023 Corton-Charlemagne is a profound and exceptionally limited expression of one of Burgundy’s most celebrated white-wine vineyards. Produced entirely from Chardonnay, it combines the natural richness and power of the Corton hill with vibrant acidity, stony minerality and the remarkable precision for which the finest Corton-Charlemagne wines are known.
The Place
Corton-Charlemagne is a Grand Cru appellation situated at the northern end of Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune, where the rounded Hill of Corton rises above the villages of Aloxe-Corton, Pernand-Vergelesses and Ladoix-Serrigny. The appellation occupies the hill’s higher, cooler slopes at approximately 280 to 330 meters above sea level.
These elevated vineyards are planted on steep slopes composed of limestone, marl and thin, stony soils. The combination of altitude, exposure and mineral-rich geology gives Corton-Charlemagne its distinctive balance of concentration, freshness and long-lived structure. Although the appellation covers approximately 60 hectares currently under production, individual domaine holdings are often extremely small.
The Vineyard
Domaine Clos de la Chapelle farms just 0.30 hectare—less than one acre—of Corton-Charlemagne. Its parcel is located on the Pernand-Vergelesses side of the hill, facing west, and is planted with approximately 45-year-old Chardonnay vines. The soils contain a high proportion of limestone and marl, contributing to the wine’s firm mineral backbone, chalky texture and naturally persistent finish.
Production is correspondingly tiny, making this one of the domaine’s rarest and most sought-after bottlings.
The Grape
100% Chardonnay. Corton-Charlemagne is reserved exclusively for white Grand Cru Burgundy produced from Chardonnay. In this remarkable terroir, the grape develops considerable body and concentration while retaining the acidity, mineral tension and definition necessary for extended bottle aging.
Winemaking
Following harvest and sorting, the grapes are whole-cluster pressed. After a short settling of the juice, fermentation takes place in barrel with native yeasts. The wine is then matured in barrel for approximately 12 to 18 months, depending upon the character of the vintage, followed by a light fining before bottling.
Jasper Morris noted that the 2023 was produced from five barrels, with the fruit pressed without prior crushing and one barrel reserved for a longer period of élevage.
Tasting Notes
The 2023 opens with expansive aromas of lemon, ripe apple, fresh citrus, crushed stone and discreetly toasted oak. With air, additional notes of white flowers, orchard fruit and subtle spice begin to emerge.
The palate is broad and expressive yet beautifully controlled, supported by vibrant acidity and a firm, steely mineral backbone. Ripe citrus and apple flavors are layered with chalk, stone and finely integrated oak. There is impressive depth through the middle of the palate, followed by a long, focused and seemingly endless finish marked by freshness, chalky texture and mouthwatering mineral persistence.
This is a powerful yet precise Corton-Charlemagne: already expressive, but structured to reward patient cellaring.
Professional Ratings
95 Points Wine Spectator This white is expansive and expressive, with lemon, apple tart, citronella, stone and toasty oak aromas and flavors. Delineated by vibrant acidity, with well-integrated oak and a chalky feel on the seemingly endless finish.
94 Points — Jasper Morris, MW, Inside Burgundy 5 barrels, without crushing before pressing, one will be kept back for a longer elevage. Quite a deep yellow. The bouquet is very different to Pierre Meurgey’s Corton-Charlemagne (more or less the same fruit but some was crushed), the Clos de la Chapelle version offering more precision but less character. This version has a steely backbone, some ripe citrus, a little flesh, medium tension, apples at the back. Just needs a little more tension for the 4th star. Barrel Sample: 92-94
The Domaine
Domaine Clos de la Chapelle is based in Volnay and takes its name from the historic Volnay Premier Cru Clos de la Chapelle monopole, acquired by Victor Boillot in 1865. After remaining with the Boillot family for nearly 150 years, the estate was acquired in 2010 by Burgundy enthusiast Mark O’Connell and his Burgundian partners.
Today, the domaine cultivates approximately five hectares divided among 16 vineyards, including prized Premier Cru and Grand Cru parcels in Volnay, Pommard, Beaune, Meursault and Corton. Annual production is extremely limited, totaling approximately 2,000 cases across the entire estate.
Food Pairing and Service
Serve at approximately 54–57°F. This structured, mineral-driven white Burgundy is an exceptional partner for lobster, scallops, halibut, sea bass, crab, roast poultry, veal in cream sauce, escargots and richly textured cheeses such as Comté or Délice de Bourgogne.
While the wine may be enjoyed young with decanting, Corton-Charlemagne is renowned for its ability to develop for decades. Additional bottle age will allow its citrus, stone and oak elements to integrate while revealing more complex notes of honey, toasted nuts, truffle and spice.
Region: Burgundy, France
Subregion: Côte de Beaune
Appellation: Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Village Area: Pernand-Vergelesses side of the Hill of Corton
Grape: 100% Chardonnay
Vineyard Holding: 0.30 hectare
Vine Age: Approximately 45 years
Soil: Limestone and marl
Wine Type: Dry white wine
Bottle Size: 750ml
Domaine Clos de la Chapelle Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2023
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