L. Aubry Fils | Brut | Premier Cru | Montagne de Reims, Champagne | NV (70% 2021 Base) | Transitioning Organic
Wine and Spirits: 92 Points — Fresh and complex, showing red currant, green pear, red apple and wildflower honey. Praised for its lively herbal acidity, generous fruit and the additional character contributed by Champagne's rare historic grape varieties.
James Suckling: 92 Points — Smooth, rounded and beautifully balanced, with bright lemon and citrus flavors, gentle nuttiness and a refined pastry-like texture on the finish.
Wine Spectator: 91 Points — Firm and mineral driven, with wild cherry, berry fruit, wet chalk and brine. A fine mousse carries notes of whole-grain toast, grapefruit pith and lemon thyme through the finish. (Disgorged March 2025)
Vinous: 91 Points — Gracious, elegant and charming, with delicate notes of orchard fruit, spice, dried flowers and mint. (Disgorged May 2021)
L. Aubry Fils is one of Champagne's most singular grower-producers. The Aubry family has cultivated vines in the region since 1790, and brothers Philippe and Pierre Aubry now run the estate from the Premier Cru village of Jouy-les-Reims in the Petite Montagne de Reims. Their particular distinction lies in the preservation of Champagne's rarest historic grape varieties — Arbanne, Petit Meslier and Fromenteau (the local name for Pinot Gris) — cultivated today by only a handful of producers in the region. These varieties appear in the Brut alongside the three classic Champagne grapes, lending the wine an aromatic complexity and originality that sets it apart from the mainstream.
The current release is composed of 31% Chardonnay, 31% Pinot Noir, 31% Pinot Meunier and 7% Arbanne, Petit Meslier and Fromenteau, drawn from Premier Cru vineyards in Jouy-les-Reims, Villedommange, Pargny-les-Reims and Coulommes-la-Montagne. The soils are fossil-rich limestone, contributing brightness, pronounced acidity and a firm mineral character. The estate is progressively transitioning toward organic farming, with close attention to soil health and the long-term preservation of its historic varieties.
The base is 70% from the 2021 harvest, supplemented by 30% reserve wines dating back to 1998 — a perpetual reserve that adds depth, maturity and consistency across releases. Vinification is primarily in stainless steel, preserving freshness and fruit purity, with a portion of the Chardonnay matured in previously used oak barrels for texture and subtle pastry richness. Malolactic fermentation is completed in full. After secondary fermentation in bottle, the wine ages more than 18 months on its lees and is finished at a dosage of approximately 4 grams per liter — dry, energetic and food-friendly.
The wine opens with aromas of green pear, crisp apple, white peach and red berries, followed by white flowers, citrus peel, fresh bread and subtle wildflower honey. With air, notes of toasted grain, almond, dried herbs and chalk emerge. The palate is lively and finely balanced — fresh orchard fruit and bright citrus are joined by wild cherry, raspberry and red currant, while a delicate mousse carries whole-grain toast, grapefruit pith, lemon thyme and roasted nuts. Firm acidity and a mineral foundation of wet chalk and brine lead to a clean, persistent and gently saline finish.
Serve as an aperitif or pair with oysters, shellfish, grilled fish, smoked salmon, sushi, roast chicken, charcuterie, mushroom dishes, fried appetizers and moderately aged cheeses. Serve well chilled at 46–50°F in a white wine or tulip-shaped Champagne glass.
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Producer: L. Aubry Fils
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Cuvée: Brut
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Classification: Premier Cru Brut
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Appellation: Champagne, France
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Region: Montagne de Reims
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Villages: Jouy-les-Reims, Villedommange, Pargny-les-Reims and Coulommes-la-Montagne
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Grape Varieties: 31% Chardonnay, 31% Pinot Noir, 31% Pinot Meunier, 7% Arbanne / Petit Meslier / Fromenteau
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Base Vintage: 70% 2021 harvest
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Reserve Wines: 30%, dating back to 1998
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Farming: Transitioning organic
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Soils: Fossil-rich limestone
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Vinification: Primarily stainless steel; portion of Chardonnay in used oak
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Malolactic Fermentation: Yes
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Lees Aging: 18+ months
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Dosage: ~4 g/L
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Bottle Size: 750ml
As a non-vintage Champagne, grape proportions, base vintages, reserve wine percentages, dosage, lees aging period and disgorgement dates may vary by release. Critic ratings may refer to different disgorgements of the same cuvée.
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