Récoltant-Manipulant Champagne - Grower Champagne

Leclerc Briant Réserve Extra Brut — Épernay, Champagne, France NV

Leclerc Briant is one of Champagne's most celebrated and pioneering grower-producers — a historic house based in Épernay with roots going back to 1872, and today one of the region's most committed advocates for biodynamic viticulture. Under the stewardship of the Lignac family, Leclerc Briant farms its vineyards according to strict biodynamic principles — certified by Demeter — believing that the health of the soil is the foundation of great Champagne. The estate works with the lunar calendar, uses only natural preparations, and practices minimal intervention in the cellar, allowing the terroir of their Marne Valley and Côte des Blancs vineyards to express itself with clarity and precision. The Réserve Extra Brut is the house's signature non-vintage cuvée — a blend of 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier, and 20% Chardonnay, based on the 2019 harvest, with reserve wines adding depth and complexity. Extra Brut in style, it is drier and more precise than a standard Brut, allowing the terroir and the fruit to speak without the softening effect of dosage.

The color is bright pale yellow with a fine, lively mousse. The nose is complex and inviting: wet asphalt, ripe white peach, fresh redcurrant, pear, verbena, lime, herbs, and a touch of menthol — the signature of biodynamic Champagne. On the palate, it is medium-bodied and approachable with a rounded mid-palate, chalky and pithy texture, and sleek acidity animating flavors of chopped raspberry, nectarine, preserved lemon, and oyster shell. The finish is persistent, lightly spiced, and mouthwatering — clean, energetic, and long.

Jeb Dunnuck 92 — "Wet asphalt, ripe white peach, and fresh redcurrant. Rounded mid-palate, chalky and pithy texture with a lively yet fine mousse. Attractive and balanced with a clean finish."

Wine Spectator 92 — "Lithe and graceful, with sleek acidity animating flavors of chopped raspberry, nectarine, preserved lemon and oyster shell. Fine and satiny in texture, offering a persistent, lightly spiced finish."

Wine Advocate 90 — "Lively, fresh bouquet of pear, verbena, lime tree, herbs and menthol. Vinous and energetic with an incisive mid-palate and a mouthwatering, fresh finish."

• Producer: Leclerc Briant, Épernay, Champagne, France (est. 1872)
• Style: Extra Brut NV
• Blend: 40% Pinot Noir / 40% Pinot Meunier / 20% Chardonnay
• Base Vintage: 2019
• Farming: Certified Biodynamic (Demeter)
• Dosage: Extra Brut (very low dosage)
• Size: 750ml
• Tasting Notes: White peach, redcurrant, raspberry, nectarine, preserved lemon, oyster shell, wet asphalt, chalky texture, persistent spiced finish
• Style: Precise, energetic, terroir-driven
• Best Paired With: Oysters, sushi, grilled fish, lobster, soft cheeses, charcuterie, caviar

Biodynamic Champagne from one of Épernay's most celebrated grower-producers — Leclerc Briant Réserve Extra Brut is precise, energetic, and triple 90+ point rated.

Pascal Agrapart is one of Champagne's most revered grower-producers, farming his family's vineyards in Avize with a quiet, uncompromising dedication to terroir. Certified organic, working with natural yeasts, and bottling without fining or filtration, Agrapart represents the intellectual and artisanal pinnacle of the Côte des Blancs — a producer whose wines are sought by collectors and sommeliers worldwide.

The Agrapart & Fils Champagne Les 7 Crus Extra Brut NV Organic (Base 2023) 750ml is a Blanc de Blancs assemblage drawing on têtes de cuvée from seven premier and grand cru terroirs across Avize, Oger, Cramant, and Oiry. Fermented with natural yeasts, aged 32–44 months sur lie, with 25% of the wine matured in older 600L casks for added texture and complexity. Bottled unfiltered with a minimal dosage of just 5 g/L and SO2 at 50 mg/L — a wine of precision, integrity, and remarkable depth.

Creamy and flavorful yet precise and vertical, with an array of citrus, chalk, and white flower that carries through to a long, mineral finish. A benchmark expression of organic Champagne craftsmanship.

Winemaking Details

• 100% Chardonnay — Blanc de Blancs
• Terroirs: Avize, Oger, Cramant & Oiry (7 premier & grand crus)
• Natural yeast fermentation; 100% malolactic
• 25% aged in older 600L casks; remainder in tank
• Aged sur lie 32–44 months; manual riddling
• Bottled unfiltered; dosage 5 g/L; SO2 50 mg/L
• Certified organic | Base vintage: 2023
• 750ml

About L’Arbre

L’Arbre is Vincent Cuillier’s most personal wine — a single-parcel Champagne from Les Voyets, the family’s most historic vineyard in the Marne village of Pouillon. The name “L’Arbre” (The Tree) is a direct nod to Cuillier’s extensive work planting trees and cultivating biodiversity across the estate through natural viticulture and vitiforestry.

Made exclusively as a zero-dosage vintage Champagne from 100% Pinot Meunier, this is a wine of remarkable depth and precision — a testament to Cuillier’s deft hand in both the vines and the cellar.

Tasting Notes

Plump, forward berry fruit — red cherry, wild strawberry, and a hint of brioche — kept in elegant check by crisp acidity and fine, complex mineral-driven lines. The zero dosage reveals the wine’s true character: pure, taut, and long on the finish. A Blanc de Noirs of genuine cellar-worthiness.

In the Cellar

Indigenous yeast fermentation in small stainless steel tanks, followed by a full year of tank aging. This vintage cuvée spends the requisite 36 months sur lattes before being hand-disgorged with zero dosage. No fining, no filtration.

Food Pairings

• Oysters, sea urchin, and raw shellfish
• Charcuterie, aged ham, and mushroom dishes
• Soft-ripened cheeses (Brie, Camembert)
• Roasted chicken or guinea fowl

About Vincent Cuillier

Vincent Cuillier is a grower-producer based in Pouillon in the Marne Valley, farming his family’s historic parcels with a deep commitment to natural viticulture and vitiforestry — an approach that integrates trees and biodiversity into the vineyard ecosystem. His wines are made with minimal intervention: indigenous fermentations, no fining or filtration, and zero dosage across the range. L’Arbre represents the pinnacle of his work.

Product Details

• Producer: Vincent Cuillier
• Cuvée: L’Arbre Blanc de Noirs
• Style: Brut Nature (Zero Dosage)
• Varietal: 100% Pinot Meunier
• Vintage: 2022 (Disgorged)
• Appellation: Champagne AOC
• Village: Pouillon, Marne, France
• Parcel: Les Voyets
• Farming: Natural viticulture / Vitiforestry
• Vinification: Indigenous yeast, stainless steel, 36 months sur lattes, hand-disgorged
• Dosage: Zero (Brut Nature)
• Bottle Size: 750ml
• Closure: Cork & Cage

• Practicing organic
• 90% Pinot Noir (15% vin rouge), 10% Chardonnay
• 50% 2022, 50% 2021-2020
• From Rilly-la-Montagne 1er Cru and Villers-Allerands 1er Cru
• Clay and limestone
• 35+ year old vines
• No malo
• Fermented and aged in large foudre
• Aged 30+ months on the lees
• Dosage: 8g/L

• The Wine Advocate by William Kelley writes 92 Points |

  Generous and expressive, the latest rendition of Vilmart's NV Brut Premier Cru Cuvée Rubis is showing very well, bursting with aromas of red berries, plums, blood orange and dried flowers. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with a sapid core of fruit, a pillowy mousse and a lively, delicately phenolic finish, it's already drinking well. This is based on the 2017 vintage, with reserve wines from the 2016 and 2015 vintages, and it was disgorged with nine grams per liter dosage.

• The Wine Spectator 93 Points | Fine and harmonious, this is lightly chalky and refined in texture, showing pinpoint integration of its well-spiced range of pureed raspberry, blood orange granita, lime peel, biscuit and mineral notes and its spine of chiseled acidity. Concentrated yet ethereal. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Disgorged July 2024. Drink now through 2030.
• Allen Meadows Burghound 91 Points | Medium ruby color. The moderately fruity nose is composed of raspberry, cherry, strawberry and lovely yeast, apple and citrus peel whiffs. The delicious and super-yeasty flavors possess fine depth on the clean and relatively dry finish, indeed this is notably drier than what is typical for the genre. Lovely and this is a wine that could be enjoyed now or held for a few years first.
• Jeb Dunnuck 90 Points | The NV Cuvée Rubis is vibrant pink, with aromas of wildflowers, wild raspberry, and juicy fruit. The palate is juicy and round, with blood orange, and perfect for relatively near-term drinking over the next 6-8 years.

Laherte Frères Ultradition Brut NV — Champagne

Laherte Frères is a benchmark grower-producer in Chavot, farming biodynamically and organically across 10 hectares in the Côte des Blancs and Vallée de la Marne. The Ultradition is their signature cuvée — a multi-vintage blend anchored by old-vine Pinot Meunier, built to express terroir transparency and minimal intervention. Wine Spectator awarded it 92 points, calling it “vivid” and “clean-cut and minerally on the finish.” John Gilman added 92+ points, praising its “superb soil signature, refined mousse, and a very long, complex, dancing finish.” At this price, it is one of the most compelling values in grower Champagne.

The nose opens with white peach, spring flowers, chalky soil tones, gentle smokiness, and a dollop of brioche. On the palate it is full-bodied and extremely elegant — pure, with a fine core, refined mousse, and a long, dancing finish of citrus and mineral. Pinot Meunier at its most expressive.

Wine Spectator 92 • Vinous 92 • John Gilman 92+ — “Pure, full-bodied, and extremely elegant, with a very long, complex and dancing finish.”

• Producer: Laherte Frères, Chavot, Champagne, France
• Style: Brut NV
• Blend: 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir
• Appellation: Champagne AOC
• Dosage: 6–8 g/L
• Farming: Biodynamic, Organic
• Format: 750ml
• Tasting Notes: White peach, spring flowers, chalk, brioche, citrus, mineral finish
• Best Paired With: Oysters, lobster, sushi, aged Comté, roast chicken, caviar

A 92-point biodynamic grower Champagne at an honest price — Laherte Frères’ Ultradition is the benchmark for what Pinot Meunier-driven Champagne can be.

Expert Reviews 

Alison Napjus of the Wine Spectator writes 92 Points | The fine and creamy bead of this elegant rosé carries an attractive mix of white cherry, peach, blood orange granita and biscuit flavors, enlivened by a firm frame of mouthwatering acidity.

Audrey Frick of Jeb Dunnuck writes 90 Points | The NV Champagne Grand Brut Rosé pours a medium salmon hue and is equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (8% of which is red wine). It is juicy with ripe raspberry, crushed flowers, and sweet citrus. The palate is ripe with apricot, sweet tangerine, and a soft texture. It is ready to drink now or over the next 6-8 years.

Winemaker Description 

This Grand Rosé has a high percentage of Chardonnay, which creates freshness and precision, complemented by Pinot Noir with delivers very fine and crunchy fruit. With 4 years minimum ageing in the cellars, this Rosé balances between freshness and fruit without masking the wine’s character and purity. The nose reveals aromas of citrus and strawberries with subtle notes of red berries and spice. The palate is well-built with a constant balance between the tension of the acidity and the smoothness of the fruit, while the finish shows a nice roundness and lovely minerality.

Expert Reviews - Vintage 2013

Jeb Dunnuck 98 Points | Originally a part of the legendary Piper-Heidsieck Champagne house, Rare is moving their Champagne Millésime to a new brand and want it to stand alone. (Think Delamotte and Salon.) The 13th vintage for this cuvée, the 2013 Champagne Millésime is a blend is 70% Chardonnay with the rest Pinot Noir, with the majority of the blend coming from the Montagne de Reims Grand Cru and Premier Cru. A bright yellow hue, its aromatics are exquisite and well-balanced, with fresh notes of key lime, candied apple, fresh croissant dough, fresh pineapple, and honeysuckle. Medium to full-bodied, it fills the palate with a rounded and supple texture and a pillowy mousse. It’s long on the palate and has a silky personality as well as a long, pristine finish. It has fantastic balance of decadence and freshness, and I could drink this all day. It’s going to have a long drinking window. 

James Suckling 96 Points | Such a pleasingly elegant and multifaceted Champagne with salty, creamy and toasty elements all wound together. Plenty of apricot pastries, pears, brown butter, fennel and salted almonds, with some iodine. It’s silky on the palate, with soft and supple bubbles, while remaining fresh and on edge. 70% chardonnay and 30% pinot noir, from 11 cru villages mostly in Montagne de Reims with Cotes de Blancs. Disgorged December 2022. 9 g/L dosage. 

Vinous 95 Points | The 2013 Brut Millésime, a blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims, spent eight years on lees. A gorgeous whiff of reductive smokiness precedes a sea breeze and hints of toasted nuts. The palate is a picture of tautness, filigree foam, finesse and svelte poise. This wine is wonderfully pure and bracing, with hints of caramelized hazelnuts and almonds teasingly in the background, gaining definition from an oystershell saltiness. The longer you pay attention, the more happens in this wonderfully nuanced and sophisticated wine.

Decanter 95 Points | Initially cool and breezy on the nose, like sea spray and freshly sliced lemons. As it warms, it shows fresh pineapple, coconut, Sorrento lemons and a tiny touch of toast on the finish. This really is very youthful, taut and tingling, with very fine acidity. Lots of intrigue to come as it ages. 2013 was sunny in the early part of the season, but was also very cool. Harvest did not take place until October, the only time in the last 30 years that harvest has taken place in October. The grapes matured very slowly. 

Memo Summary Notes

The Piper-Heidsieck Rare Millésime 2013 is the 13th vintage of this prestigious prestige cuvée since its debut in 1976. This specific vintage is celebrated for its "tropical minerality"—a signature of the house—blended with the precision and crystalline acidity of the cooler 2013 harvest.

Bérêche et Fils has been producing Champagne since the mid-19th century, and the estate’s reputation as one of the finest in the entire region has only grown under the stewardship of brothers Raphaël and Vincent Bérêche. Their approach is uncompromising: single-vineyard plots, minimal dosage, no malolactic fermentation, and a deep respect for terroir that allows each site to speak with clarity and precision. The result is a house style that is unmistakably racy, mineral, and built for the long haul.

This Cramant Grand Cru is a singular expression of one of Champagne’s most celebrated Chardonnay terroirs — a finely defined, powdery, and ethereally fresh wine resting upon an incredible bedrock of chalk. The nose is ample and delicate, evoking hawthorn against a backdrop of slightly damp chalk. The palate is unctuous and pure, revealing notes of iodine and extraordinary mineral tension. The finish — soft, chalky, and seemingly endless — gives way to the sheer emotion that only a great Cramant can evoke. A magnificent vintage with excellent aging potential.

Varietal: Chardonnay (Blanc de Blancs)
Vintage: 2020
Appellation: Cramant Grand Cru, Champagne, France
Style: Extra Brut / Zero Dosage
Farming: Biodynamic
Bottle Size: 750ml

Among the most extraordinary expressions in the entire Bérêche portfolio, this Mailly-Champagne Grand Cru Millésime is sourced from a magnificent parcel acquired in 2011, situated just outside the village on the road toward Verzenay — so close, in fact, that it borders the Verzenay vineyards themselves. The vines are old and yield small, concentrated grapes of remarkable identity, their deep, slightly reddish clay soil imparting a distinctive character that sets this cuvée apart. The Pinot Fin — an ancient biotype of Pinot Noir prized for its exquisite delicacy — reveals itself in every sip: complex, precise, and built for the table rather than the aperitif. Disgorged July 2025 at just 3 grams per liter dosage.

Critical Review
“The 2020 Extra-Brut Blanc de Noirs Mailly-Champagne Grand Cru is a total stunner. Ample and explosive, with palpable vertical energy, the Mailly-Champagne has it all. The 2020 possesses superb textural depth, refined contours and vertical explosiveness that is hard to fully describe in words. Cranberry, chalk, mint, white pepper, slate and dried herbs soar across the palate. The 2020 boasts mind-blowing purity and class to burn. I would be thrilled to own it.” — 97 pts, Vinous

Varietal: Pinot Noir / Pinot Fin (Blanc de Noirs)
Vintage: 2020
Appellation: Mailly-Champagne Grand Cru, Champagne, France
Style: Extra Brut (3g/L dosage)
Farming: Biodynamic
Disgorgement: July 2025
Bottle Size: 750ml

Expert Reviews

Jeb Dunnuck 93 Points | Medium golden yellow hue, the NV Champagne La Vallée Suspendue Extra Brut is expressive on the nose and leaps from the glass with rounded aromas of lemon curd, merengue, pastry dough, marzipan, and red berries. It has more intensity on the palate, becoming more savory and salty, with a brothy feel, a fluffy mousse, and a chalky, textured finish. This is a solid wine with a lot of character to enjoy over the coming 10 years.

Vinous 93 Points | The NV (2016) Extra Brut La Vallée Suspendue is a blend of 80% Meunier, 15% Pinot Noir and 5% Chardonnay, based on 2016 with 50% reserve wines from a perpetual reserve that goes back to 1999. Those elements combine in a rich, resonant Champagne that is incredibly distinctive. Dried pear, spice, tangerine oil and exotic yellow flowers all build in the glass, but it is the wine's overall balance I admire most. Dosage is 4 grams per liter. Disgorged: June 2023.

The Côte de Sézanne lies south of the Côte des Blancs and is known for producing generous, expressive Chardonnay. Here, the vines grow in clay and sandy soils over chalk, contributing both ripe fruit character and the mineral freshness associated with fine Champagne. The vineyard is farmed according to certified sustainable practices.

Made from 100% Chardonnay, the wine is fermented in stainless-steel tanks and undergoes full malolactic fermentation, lending softness and harmony to its naturally bright profile. It rests for seven months on its fine lees before bottling and receives a minimum of 36 months of bottle aging prior to disgorgement, allowing the wine to develop added depth, texture and complexity.

Elegant and inviting, Aux Origines offers a beautiful balance of fresh orchard fruit, citrus, white flowers and subtle brioche, supported by chalky minerality and a fine, persistent mousse. Its rounded texture and vibrant finish make it equally appealing as an aperitif or at the table.

Serve well chilled with oysters, caviar, shellfish, sushi, delicate white fish, soft cheeses or light poultry dishes.

Producer: J. Vignier
Cuvée: Aux Origines
Base Vintage: 2017
Region: Champagne, France
Appellation: Côte de Sézanne
Vineyard: Les Simarts
Grape Variety: 100% Chardonnay
Soil: Clay and sand over chalk
Farming: Certified sustainable by Socofret
Fermentation: Stainless steel
Malolactic Fermentation: Yes
Lees Aging: Seven months on fine lees, followed by a minimum of 36 months in bottle before disgorgement
Alcohol: 12.5%
Bottle Size: 750ml 

Bérêche et Fils’ Ambonnay Grand Cru is one of the most coveted single-village expressions in their portfolio — and among the most compelling Blanc de Noirs in all of Champagne. Sourced from a single lieu-dit, “Les Tourets,” in the western part of Ambonnay village, this is Pinot Noir of extraordinary purity and presence. Ambonnay’s signature cashmere-like texture is immediately apparent: open, enveloping, and generous, with a volume and power that never tips into heaviness. Brioche and honey on the attack give way to floral lift and a finish that is invigorating, slightly iodized, and saline — the unmistakable signature of chalk and grand cru terroir. A wine of genuine rarity, with just 2,325 bottles produced.

Critical Review
“A beautiful, enveloping wine; brioche-like on the attack, floral, with notes of honey and ripeness. The finish is invigorating, slightly iodized, and saline.” — Le Rouge et le Blanc

Varietal: Pinot Noir (Blanc de Noirs)
Vintage: 2020
Appellation: Ambonnay Grand Cru, Champagne, France
Lieu-dit: Les Tourets
Style: Extra Brut
Farming: Biodynamic
Production: 2,325 bottles
Bottle Size: 750ml

Expert Reviews - Base 2021

The Wine Advocate 95 Points | Emmanuel Brochet’s NV Le Mont Benoit (2021 base), which includes 40% reserve wines from 2020 and 2019, was disgorged in May 2024 with a dosage of four grams per liter—slightly higher than usual. He notes that this modest adjustment was necessitated by the incisive profile of the base vintage. The wine unfurls from the glass with aromas of green apple, chamomile and peeled almond. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied, chiseled, bright and laden with electric acidity, culminating in a long, chalky finish marked by a distinctive bitterness. Stylistically, this bottling slightly diverges from recent iterations shaped by a string of warm vintages, but qualitatively speaking, it is unmistakably the same superb cuvée. While Brochet himself expresses a degree of dissatisfaction due to its higher malic acid, such critique speaks to the standards of a perfectionist. This rendition, in all likelihood, will age beautifully over the coming years.  

Memo Summary Notes

The Emmanuel Brochet Rosé de Saignée Extra Brut "R21" is a highly sought-after, "unicorn" grower Champagne. It is crafted by Emmanuel Brochet, a cult producer based in Villers-aux-Nœuds on the Montagne de Reims, known for his tiny production and extremely meticulous organic farming.

The "R21" notation indicates that the base year for this non-vintage release is the 2021 harvest.

Expert Review

The Wine Advocate by Kristaps Karklins 92 Points | Paillard’s NV Bouzy Grand Cru Les Parcelles XX hails from the 2020 vintage and, in keeping with the tradition, incorporates 20% reserve wines. It embodies the signature blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay, sourced exclusively from the sun-drenched, south-facing slopes of Bouzy. The bouquet is expressive, unfolding with aromas of pear, ripe citrus and warm spices, mingling with nuances of toasted bread and orange zest. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied, showcasing a livelier, more luminous fruit profile than its predecessor, driven by racy acidity and finishing with a pronounced saline finish. True to the estate’s approach, maturation take place in 350-liter oak barrels, with the final cuvée composed from a mosaic of approximately 25 distinct parcels across Bouzy. The dosage is set at two grams per liter. 

Winemaker Description 

Les Parcelles is a precise expression of Bouzy terroir vinified by the Paillard brothers; the powerful Pinot Noir from south-facing slopes is balanced by the finesse of the chalky subsoil. Produced mainly from the 2020 harvest, with 20% reserve wines, this cuvée is composed of 80% pinot noir and 20% chardonnay. Fermented in oak, it is cellared for three years on lees before disgorgement. Dosage: 2 gr/l. 

Winemaker Description

A 'Blanc de Blancs' champagne is a type of champagne that is made exclusively from white grape varieties, typically Chardonnay. This style of champagne is known for its elegance, finesse, and bright acidity.

Founded in 1847, Bérêche et Fils spent over a century as a quiet, family-run estate before brothers Raphaël and Vincent Bérêche transformed it into one of the most talked-about grower Champagne houses in France — earning lavish praise from critics including Antonio Galloni and Peter Liem, and a devoted following among the country’s top sommeliers and cavistes. Their approach is uncompromising: biodynamic farming, natural yeasts, no malolactic fermentation, and minimal dosage, allowing each terroir to express itself with maximum clarity.

This Aÿ Grand Cru Millésime 2015 captures all the richness of one of Champagne’s most celebrated villages in one of its most generous recent vintages. A co-fermentation of Pinot Noir from Froide-Terre and Chardonnay from Brise-Pot, the Chardonnay lending notable freshness to the Pinot’s natural power and depth. Racy and exuberant, with an exciting mix of crushed red berry fruit, lemon confit, ginger, cinnamon, and dried rose petals — finishing with remarkable liveliness and precision.

Critical Review
“The 2015 Extra Brut Ay Grand Cru captures all the richness of Ay and of this dry, sunny vintage. Racy and exuberant, the 2015 offers up an exciting mix of crushed red berry fruit, lemon confit, ginger, cinnamon and dried rose petals. The Ay is a blend of Pinot Noir from Froide-Terre and Chardonnay from Brise-Pot, co-fermented, with the Chardonnay lending notable freshness. That is especially evident on the lively finish.” — 94 pts, Vinous

Varietal: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay
Vintage: 2015
Appellation: Aÿ Grand Cru, Champagne, France
Style: Extra Brut
Farming: Biodynamic
Bottle Size: 750ml